Blog

Italia

My two favorite places in Italy were Venice and Sardinia. In the Venice area there is another island 10 minuets away by bout called Lido. Since there were no rooms left on Venice, we stayed here. After refusing the taxi man’s offer to drive us we hiked the grueling two miles with all of our luggage to the hotel. The next day we walked around Venice for about 3 hours and for the next 5 days we did the same thing. Venice was one of my favorite places so far.

Sardinia is an island off the southeastern cost of Italy. This is the first place that we rented a car. Even though we had 7 days we only explored the top part of the island.

-Corin

Sardenia, Italy

Hello from the second largest island in the Mediterranean- Sardinia. We had planned to go to Turkey for ten days before leaving on our cruise down the west coast of Africa, but the plane was cancelled and there were no attempts to help us re-schedule- they just shrugged their shoulders! So I had a memory of a friend telling me how much she loved this island and we were able to take a night ferry over, rent a car, and take off exploring in the “off season” where we pretty much have run of the island.

This is where so much of our olive oil comes from, some wine, and many sheep cheeses. We have had an wonderful time here- the weather is like a fine summer day in Alaska- blue skies, breezy, and open hiways. The coastline is explored and expensive, but the interior of the island is still very traditional with the women wearing their black skirts and shawls. The villages are set on impossibly steep mountain sides, and bear the signs of the extreme heat of summer with pale bleached walls of peach and tan and pale yellows. The streets are ancient cobbles and of course each town has a clock tower which chimes with very old sounding bells- a more "clanging" than chiming sound. Herds of sheep and goats blanket the mountain sides and each has their own bell which is so much like a chorus – loud enough to hear with the windows open while driving.

One Sunday morning I got up at first light and took my camera around the small town of Oliena. I was able to shoot portraits of the women in their traditional black clothing- they were at first shy, then very accommodating. One woman implored me to come into her house- she had a photo she wanted me to take for her. I thought maybe she had some tomatoes or grapes or something, but alas, it was her dying husband in his bed, so perfectly tended with exceptional neatness. She gestured to the religious paintings surrounding him and indicated she had no photo of them together. I took one for them and have asked Greta to print it and send to them. I felt so touched- we take so much of our every day recording, blogging, phone calls- for granted. Here my camera was able to give them a gift, which I have no doubt will serve them soon at his funeral and I am grateful that I could do this for them.

There is something here called “Agriturismo” which is where the large olive farms and sheep ranchers welcome you into their homes for a night stay and dinner and breakfast. We stumbled on one truly gorgeous one, and loved our visit there, except for the very loud baby next door to our room. The poor young couple had kept her up too late, then couldn’t console her to save their lives- sigh.

Our time in Venice prior to coming to this island was in contrast very saturated with people, and antiquities of a different sort. Corin was able to find art that is in his history book so we sent a photo to the educational company making the book which they very much appreciated. It is picturesque, but also incredibly expensive. For instance the famous gondola ride that we always see in movies- was $150 for 20 minutes (we passed!) and we also chose to stay at the island directly across from Venice proper- Lido. This was a good choice for us- the water taxis were easy to use when we wanted to go in, and we could bicycle around the island for exercise. Corin is loving the food here- of course what ten year old could ever have enough pizza? But also the sauces, the pastas, the persimmons especially- a healthy choice for dessert!

Tomorrow we will leave for Rome, and the following day we will board a cruise for a 25 day journey down the west coast of Africa. I am tired of schlepping the luggage and looking forward to making very few decisions for the next three and a half weeks- yeah! Corin will catch up on school work on the days we are only at sea. All is good- I feel healthy, lucky, stimulated and happy. I hope the same for you.

-Mary

Prague

Since my mom wrote about after our time after Prague, I am going to write about getting there. This was the hardest time of our entire trip because my mom accidentally booked the 2 flights to London and London to Prague so that when we arrived we only had 2.5 hours to get to the next plane. You may think ''thats not hard its just across an airport,'' but thats the problem-its at a different airport 40 miles away! Another problem-our flight to London was delayed! At the London airport we were almost out when we encountered a humungous customs line. I had to persuade an old fat lady customs officer that kept saying ''you wont make it'' to escort us to the front of the line. When we got out side we rushed to the man holding the ''MARY KATZKE'' sign who helped us with our luggage and drove us to the airport. We were the last ones on the plane, but we made it.

My first impression of Prague was that it would be very hard to find our way around because nothing was square! Mom said often that she thinks that we were lost 80% of the time. Our hotel was good but not great, and I had the same thing for breakfast every day. We tried to get into an art school but the head master hardly spoke English and didn't have email so we couldn't. My favorite thing was climbing 283 steps up the Prague cathedral bell tower and my least favorite thing was that almost nobody spoke English well.

-Corin

Prague

The thing about Prague is that every passageway leads to yet another cool part of the city. There are no "squares" really- every plaza is hectagonal or pentagonal with spidery meandering side roads - as multiple as bicycle spokes.  It is seemingly endless and therefore becomes overwhelming very quickly. It is a city to invest weeks in, not see in a few days. I am pretty sure we were lost 85% of the time. Fortunately, through Facebook we were able to meet up with a friend of a friend, Darryl Jonnson who is also a father of an 11 year old girl, Noami.  This was our inside window to this fascinating city which is laden with history and has more ornate buildings than any city I've ever visited. They say there are over 450 spires.  If you try to orient yourself to say, the tall dark building with the clock tower, you quickly realize there are MANY tall dark buildings with clock towers. Asking for directions in English has limited success as well. One elderly woman was so frustrated trying to communicate with us about where to find the train station that she simply took us the entire way- right to the counter!  The river Vlatna flowing through the city is a wonderful unifying factor which provided a wonderful vantage point for night time viewing. The bridges and cobbled streets take one back hundreds of years in a second. I have grown to love the sound of our luggage being towed on the clacking surface.

There is a strong emphasis on education - in fact the 11 year old daughter of our friend is already on a career track in design- a school specializing in design and it is visually apparent the moment you walk in the entryway of the school. The building is elegant and stunning as a museum. Such amazing architecture with so many secrets held in its structure- different regimes with different agendas over the decades. We tried unsuccessfully to spend a day at her school- the principal neither spoke English nor used the computer- we worked through Darryl and I believe if we had stayed another week, it would have come together, but the process was so encumbered.

We did not find the Czechs to be overly eager to have tourists. Not that it was dangerous or bad in anyway- just sort of a sigh and tolerance- not the eager welcome of the British Isles. Sometimes they would just throw up their hands- as in when Corin couldn't decide which souvenir to purchase at their museum of natural history- he made the older clerk bend down one too many times and she just crossed her arms and said "Enough!" The old trams are a flashback to the past. I was entranced with them and recorded their sounds and rode one completely around its route.

The dinner cruise on the river turned out to be a bit of a rip off. Very plain food, an accordion playing sappy Frank Sinatra songs, and a teensy drink for the grand price of over $100 each. The sights were gorgeous and I did get some lovely photos, but...I would have booked it differently had I known better- skipped the middle men for sure. We also found the taxi price to be one if you are a tourist, and 1/3 of that if Darryl went with us!  Not a new problem but disappointing that in a country that is the tourist destination of so many Americans, we must be vigilant as in Mexico. In fact most of the tourists in our little 3 star hotel were Europeans.  The smoking everywhere was draining - the first thing you smelled in the AM, the first think you smelled when you walked outside in the morning- sometimes it even drifted into our hotel window. I am so glad our country has risen above this phase in social development.

We exited Prague by taking a night train to Venice. What fun!  The sleeper car was so comfy and clean and the service was wonderful. It was a little fantasy to travel this way. I lay awake for hours just relishing the sounds and movement.  I notice that Corin reads his books a lot when we are traveling. I asked him why he didn't look our the window more- because I personally am afraid I will miss something- like the sunrise over the vineyards. His response was wise and sobering at the same time- he said, "I'll be back. In college, with my wife, with my kids." For me, not so likely.  I am imaging this level of travel to be "it" for me- my next big goal is to find that special place to call "the last move" or at least part of the last move. A place where I can see water from my windows- I find it to be so calming and soothing and healthful and right for me.

Once we arrived in Venice, we took a water taxi to our island off the main part of the city and checked into a sweet little Italian hotel. Italians understand creature comforts- marble floors on the barefoot, excellent linens, an oil painting with an individual light over the bed, dreamy drapery- all for 25% less than the Czech hotel.

-Mary

Iceland

My first impression of Iceland was that it was about as cold as Alaska,and that looked like a cold windy desert except it didn't have any sand.also in Iceland my mom was in a film festival and dragged me to a film class. actually the class didn't start in two hours, so my mom went to a panel and told me to play outside. luckily there was a funhouse filled with toys, and it was like a mini imaginarium . and just when I thought I was in boy heaven at least 35 non-English speaking kids rushed in with a group of adults and took over everything. that was not very fun.

One day in Iceland me and my mom went to something called a blue lagoon. After the 45 minute drive we saw it and i knew how it got its name. the lagoon was literally blue! for the next 3 hours we swam in the blue water searching for the warm spots. we also got to put some white sticky mud on our faces. it reminded me of fancy swimming pools at 5 star hotels because it even had a bar on the side and a hot room too. it was very fun and i was sad when we had to leave.

In Iceland i got to go to a school to show the kids my presentation. when i got there the teacher picked out 2 other kids to show me around the school, and they became my friends there. when i showed my presentation to the class they all seemed to be interested, except at the end a little group at the back when i passed the ipad around. when we were done and were going out of the class that same little group was crowding around 1 person so i went over to them and saw that they were playing games on the ipad. one thing that was different about that school was everyone walked around without there shoes on. when had to leave, i said goodbye to everyone and walked out the door. over all it was the most interesting school i have been to because there was a cooking class where i learned how to make waffles.

-Corin

Iceland

I am quite certain we would have missed this jewel of an experience if it were not for the film festival invitation. For one thing it is expensive to get there, and to be there. That would have been such a loss. While geographically it has themes of Alaska- the wide open spaces of our tundras, the mossy green cliffs of our Aleutian chain, and glaciers, it is so much more like Europe socially and culturally. It is a country without slums or homeless people or crime of note. It is as though it is new and fresh-washed with blustery winds sweeping it clean each night. There are no shacks as are so present in rural Alaska- all new, efficient buildings. The people are fluent in at least three languages: Icelandic, Danish and English.

When Corin went to school, we learned that kids his age are equally fluent. There is a healthy culture in everything from energy to diet and food management. McDonalds left when it couldn't survive- how often does that happen? The school cafeteria lunch was fresh baked fish, steamed baby potatoes, sliced apples and radishes. Instead of piling fast food on a tray, the kids get servings of modest proportions and go back for more when their plates are clean. Needless to say, none of them struggle with America's obesity. They also clean the tables and floors and organize all the trays and dishes after they eat. The skin of the faces of the people are rosy and clear and healthy looking. They walk everywhere.

One of our venues for our festival was nearly a mile away- never mind sideways rain- we were expected to buck up and walk! I gave up trying to blow dry my hair. All the dinners were gourmet versions of seafood or reindeer meat- very tasty and light. I do hear that alcohol consumption is over the top but personally didn't see any evidence of this. Perhaps because as a parent traveling with a child I didn't go out at night beyond our planned engagements.

We took one day for a spa trip to the Blue Lagoon- a natural hot springs next to their power plant which also takes its energy from the hot springs. It was a relaxing day of scooting around in the water- finding the hot spots, cooling down away from them, drifting back over to them. I could have spent an entire day there. Corin loved it too- he was taken with all the geothermal aspects and interested in a scientific kind of way- I was just glad to be free of worry or baggage or planning for a day- few of those! My friend Nancy from Paris was there- we had bonded at the Greek film festival last March and she had her husband along so the four of us did everything together. The landscape is so raw and textural. A funny note- the odor of sulpher is fairly prevalent- in the car ride in from the airport, we were all wondering who was cutting the cheese and we kept opening our windows to let in fresh air- ha ha- I was personally SURE IT WAS CORIN doing the gassing- but alas, it was just the natural air as we passed some natural vents.

Then we find out there is an animation studio making world class feature films right there in town- the entire country only has 320,000 people- yet there is a film industry as well as great health care. I had dinner with Jim Jarmusch (a somewhat famous director from Ohio) who was also the guest of honor this year. My own film was modestly attended as it has been most everywhere- tough topic, but still very much appreciated by the critics.

Of course I found it to be expensive in Iceland but only had to buy Corin a couple pizzas when he tired of the lengthy drawn out gourmet dinners they were providing. It wasn't too bad- until we got to the airport and they charged for his excess bag of school books- by the kilo- yikes $120 extra for his school books. We also failed to hook up with box #2 which he needs for testing and moving forward in a couple subjects which was sent to catch us in Iceland- we didn't realize the customs here would hold it hostage- so we had to leave before sorting that out- not sure what we'll do now on that front.I am quite certain we would have missed this jewel of an experience if it were not for the film festival invitation. For one thing it is expensive to get there, and to be there. That would have been such a loss. While geographically it has themes of Alaska- the wide open spaces of our tundras, the mossy green cliffs of our Aleutian chain, and glaciers, it is so much more like Europe socially and culturally. It is a country without slums or homeless people or crime of note. It is as though it is new and fresh-washed with blustery winds sweeping it clean each night. There are no shacks as are so present in rural Alaska- all new, efficient buildings. The people are fluent in at least three languages: Icelandic, Danish and English.

When Corin went to school, we learned that kids his age are equally fluent. There is a healthy culture in everything from energy to diet and food management. McDonalds left when it couldn't survive- how often does that happen? The school cafeteria lunch was fresh baked fish, steamed baby potatoes, sliced apples and radishes. Instead of piling fast food on a tray, the kids get servings of modest proportions and go back for more when their plates are clean. Needless to say, none of them struggle with America's obesity. They also clean the tables and floors and organize all the trays and dishes after they eat. The skin of the faces of the people are rosy and clear and healthy looking. They walk everywhere.

One of our venues for our festival was nearly a mile away- never mind sideways rain- we were expected to buck up and walk! I gave up trying to blow dry my hair. All the dinners were gourmet versions of seafood or reindeer meat- very tasty and light. I do hear that alcohol consumption is over the top but personally didn't see any evidence of this. Perhaps because as a parent traveling with a child I didn't go out at night beyond our planned engagements.

We took one day for a spa trip to the Blue Lagoon- a natural hot springs next to their power plant which also takes its energy from the hot springs. It was a relaxing day of scooting around in the water- finding the hot spots, cooling down away from them, drifting back over to them. I could have spent an entire day there. Corin loved it too- he was taken with all the geothermal aspects and interested in a scientific kind of way- I was just glad to be free of worry or baggage or planning for a day- few of those! My friend Nancy from Paris was there- we had bonded at the Greek film festival last March and she had her husband along so the four of us did everything together. The landscape is so raw and textural. A funny note- the odor of sulpher is fairly prevalent- in the car ride in from the airport, we were all wondering who was cutting the cheese and we kept opening our windows to let in fresh air- ha ha- I was personally SURE IT WAS CORIN doing the gassing- but alas, it was just the natural air as we passed some natural vents.

Then we find out there is an animation studio making world class feature films right there in town- the entire country only has 320,000 people- yet there is a film industry as well as great health care. I had dinner with Jim Jarmusch (a somewhat famous director from Ohio) who was also the guest of honor this year. My own film was modestly attended as it has been most everywhere- tough topic, but still very much appreciated by the critics.

Of course I found it to be expensive in Iceland but only had to buy Corin a couple pizzas when he tired of the lengthy drawn out gourmet dinners they were providing. It wasn't too bad- until we got to the airport and they charged for his excess bag of school books- by the kilo- yikes $120 extra for his school books. We also failed to hook up with box #2 which he needs for testing and moving forward in a couple subjects which was sent to catch us in Iceland- we didn't realize the customs here would hold it hostage- so we had to leave before sorting that out- not sure what we'll do now on that front.

Our day to get from Reykjavik to Prague was hairy for sure. I had inadvertently booked us into one London airport (Heathrow)and out of another (Gatwick)- 40 miles away- with only a three hour turnaround. We had to hire a private car to rush us through the rain and Friday traffic- miraculously we made it but I think it did me in- I now have my first cold of the year, and of the trip. Not bad when you consider all the new germs and people we're constantly exposed to each day.

So it is that we find ourselves in Prague- I search the Slavic and Bohemian faces for possible traces of the Katzke roots. It is truly a magnificent city with fine churches and castles rising up from the grand river swathing through it. Corin is fascinated with the electrical trolley system and the lighted signage and found our way back to the hotel after our exploring today. We had a traditional dinner of slow roasted pork, apple bread puddling and slaw. Tomorrow we are guests at a "friend of a friends" who has been living here 11 years- he has a daughter Corin's age so perhaps we'll have our ticket into another school. A bit nervous with no firm plans beyond Thursday so will get some advice as well.

Our day to get from Reykjavik to Prague was hairy for sure. I had inadvertently booked us into one London airport (Heathrow)and out of another (Gatwick)- 40 miles away- with only a three hour turnaround. We had to hire a private car to rush us through the rain and Friday traffic- miraculously we made it but I think it did me in- I now have my first cold of the year, and of the trip. Not bad when you consider all the new germs and people we're constantly exposed to each day.York is a city I would have missed were it not for two strong recommendations so since it was on the way to London we stopped off for two days. It has a university feeling, with a river as its main draw. The Evensong sung at York Minster Cathedral was a spiritually uplifting experience. So perfect, so calming, so peaceful. One has the feeling of actually being back in time 600 years. I sneaked off to a movie I have been following for a year- Winter Bones- very very well directed and acted and worth the $11.25 it costs. Costs are higher in every way in Europe and I shall be relieved to scale back soon. A growing boy in tow who is never quite full adds to this!

Yesterday we explored this huge city of London on foot. We must have walked 12 miles on concrete. Corin was a trooper- bribed with pizza and treats along the way. We walked the river, and took a tourist trip on the Thames which was a madhouse. Apparently some type of race at the same time as all the tour boats. Then we walked to the National Gallery of Art- a riot was occurring outside (I believe it has to do with Northern Irish issues) but we steered clear and went inside to see the works of Seurat, Van Gogh, Monet, Manet, and more. I showed him to to study a painting for its source of light, and to recognize the style of various artists. He was quite taken to see works he has come across in school books. My legs, feet and lower back ache from all the walking. Treated myself to a hair cut in anticipation of the film festival next week as I was feeling pretty bushy. Food here is much better than the rest of the British Isles. We didn't get back until 12 hours later, exhausted as one can never really see a city in a weekend.

So it is that we find ourselves in Prague- I search the Slavic and Bohemian faces for possible traces of the Katzke roots. It is truly a magnificent city with fine churches and castles rising up from the grand river swathing through it. Corin is fascinated with the electrical trolley system and the lighted signage and found our way back to the hotel after our exploring today. We had a traditional dinner of slow roasted pork, apple bread puddling and slaw. Tomorrow we are guests at a "friend of a friends" who has been living here 11 years- he has a daughter Corin's age so perhaps we'll have our ticket into another school. A bit nervous with no firm plans beyond Thursday so will get some advice as well.York is a city I would have missed were it not for two strong recommendations so since it was on the way to London we stopped off for two days. It has a university feeling, with a river as its main draw. The Evensong sung at York Minster Cathedral was a spiritually uplifting experience. So perfect, so calming, so peaceful. One has the feeling of actually being back in time 600 years. I sneaked off to a movie I have been following for a year- Winter Bones- very very well directed and acted and worth the $11.25 it costs. Costs are higher in every way in Europe and I shall be relieved to scale back soon. A growing boy in tow who is never quite full adds to this!

Yesterday we explored this huge city of London on foot. We must have walked 12 miles on concrete. Corin was a trooper- bribed with pizza and treats along the way. We walked the river, and took a tourist trip on the Thames which was a madhouse. Apparently some type of race at the same time as all the tour boats. Then we walked to the National Gallery of Art- a riot was occurring outside (I believe it has to do with Northern Irish issues) but we steered clear and went inside to see the works of Seurat, Van Gogh, Monet, Manet, and more. I showed him to to study a painting for its source of light, and to recognize the style of various artists. He was quite taken to see works he has come across in school books. My legs, feet and lower back ache from all the walking. Treated myself to a hair cut in anticipation of the film festival next week as I was feeling pretty bushy. Food here is much better than the rest of the British Isles. We didn't get back until 12 hours later, exhausted as one can never really see a city in a weekend.

-Mary

York, England

York is a city I would have missed were it not for two strong recommendations so since it was on the way to London we stopped off for two days. It has a university feeling, with a river as its main draw. The Evensong sung at York Minster Cathedral was a spiritually uplifting experience. So perfect, so calming, so peaceful. One has the feeling of actually being back in time 600 years. I sneaked off to a movie I have been following for a year- Winter Bones- very very well directed and acted and worth the $11.25 it costs. Costs are higher in every way in Europe and I shall be relieved to scale back soon. A growing boy in tow who is never quite full adds to this!

Yesterday we explored this huge city of London on foot. We must have walked 12 miles on concrete. Corin was a trooper- bribed with pizza and treats along the way. We walked the river, and took a tourist trip on the Thames which was a madhouse. Apparently some type of race at the same time as all the tour boats. Then we walked to the National Gallery of Art- a riot was occurring outside (I believe it has to do with Northern Irish issues) but we steered clear and went inside to see the works of Seurat, Van Gogh, Monet, Manet, and more. I showed him to to study a painting for its source of light, and to recognize the style of various artists. He was quite taken to see works he has come across in school books. My legs, feet and lower back ache from all the walking. Treated myself to a hair cut in anticipation of the film festival next week as I was feeling pretty bushy. Food here is much better than the rest of the British Isles. We didn't get back until 12 hours later, exhausted as one can never really see a city in a weekend.

-Mary

Perthshireer, Scotland - My First School Visit

In Perthshire, Scotland there is a little town called Calendar in which I have stayed for a couple of weeks. The school invited me to go for a day and that I could make a presentation to show p6 and p7 (grade 5 and 6). When I first got there and started my slideshow and talk I was a little nervous, but when I started making friends and playing with them it was great.

My best friend in p7 was a red haired kid named lean (lee-an) and was the jokester of the class, like Sam joling. During both recesses, I played soccer with lean and other kids who called it football. I scored 3 points and they said that I played like a moose, whatever that means! At the end assembly the head teacher (principle) thanked me and gave me something wrapped in blue paper. Me and the other kids headed back to the p7 classroom, and since all of them were dying to know what it was I opened the gift and it was a pen and flashlight.

I turned the flashlight on in my eyes and every one laughed. Well, that was the best school yet and I can say that for sure!

-Corin

Callander, Scotland

Due to exceptionally generous friends, we are able to stay in a 2 bedroom flat here in this community at the entrance to the Trossachs. It is a very comfortable place for us to spread out the school work as well as walk everywhere we need to go for the limited internet options. We even got a public library card. Staying in one place allows us to get to the second layers in a community. Our neighbors Jennie and Brian, an elderly couple living in the same apartment complex, offered to take us up into the Trossachs which was also on a beautiful day. We visited Rob Roy's grave and then came home to watch the movie with Liam Niesem and Jessica Lange. I am struck by the "user friendly" aspect of Europe- one can be in stunning nature such as the Scottish Highlands, hiking or biking- and round a bend and have a sandwich and pint at a quaint pub just when you need it. Everything feels paced out just perfectly. I am imagining something like this in Alaska- some day it will probably be like this. One day we took the bus to Stirling to visit Stirling Castle. Corin remembered all the castle parts from his medieval studies at Chugach- remember the arduous castle projects? Pay off time! He ran enthusiastically from one place to another- telling me where the dungeon was, the arrow slits, the place to pour hot oil on intruders, the great hall, and so forth. This was one day when he was on fire with sightseeing- which doesn't happen every time.

We visited the local primary school here to see if they would be open to a visit- and got an exceptionally warm response- he is invited for the entire day, lunch included. We've worked several hours getting his presentation ready on his iPad. He feels ready. There was an announcement in the "Friday News" of his upcoming visit which resulted in-- playdates! So he is now getting a bit of kid time which he so needs. I am noticing that the rest we are getting combined with the moist air is really nice for the skin. After this we will go to Oban, a seaside community which is the gateway to the isles-in particular we hope to see the Isle of Skye. It is so hard to know when to move on- how to pace our time and resources because each place has so much to offer. I wasn't really ready to leave Ireland, yet here we are a month into our trip and still in the British Isles!

-Mary

Edinburgh, Scotland

We had not planned to spend two nights here- a long story of mishaps including arriving after dark on a busy Saturday night with no reservations and then missing the only bus to Calander the next morning. But it turned out to be a good thing. What an elegant, gorgeous, worldly and clean city. We enjoyed the Camera Obscura/Hall of Illusions (in fact Corin went back a second time) and we walked and walked our feet off- a great way to see a city. The visit coincided with the end of their month long festival- which was marked by a huge fireworks display over the castle sitting at the city's highest point. It is a place I want to come back to- even stay for a few months- to write and absorb.

-Mary

Clifden, Ireland

Clifden is a community on a bay just off the seashore. It is a great point for walking tours and biking. We did both, days of both. At one point I had taken 200 photos in two hours because I just couldn't stop- the wildflowers were peaking, the blackberries ripe, the abandoned castle with Connemara ponies grazing in front of it, the sunshine again setting all off against the brilliant blue skies. These long walks are met with moans and groans from my young travel companion, but we actually have great conversations. Things come up from the past year that I didn't even realize had happened in Corin's life. Little personal things, but humorous, or full of color- glossed over in the rush of hurrying to nowhere truly important. I am cherishing our time together, even though I do believe he is lonely for his peers. Having email takes care of that for me, but he is not interested in that type of communication at this point in his life. We both read a lot since there is no internet at most places, nor TV. Corin is reading science fantasy, and I am sucked into the Dragon Tattoo series.

-Mary

Cliffs of Moher, Ireland

My favorite part about going to Ireland is going to the cliffs of Moher and finding a 4 leaved shamrock. How I found it was that I went on a unfenced path and up to the highest point that there was, but I could not find one. When I was starting to walk back I saw one in a large grove with its head poking out above all of the other shamrocks, so I plucked it up to show my mom. When I finally found her she thought that I was playing a trick on her, but when I put the 4 leaved shamrock in her hand she saw that I wasn’t. And that end my story of the shamrock of Moher.

-Corin

Galway and Cliffs Moher, Ireland

My lifelong desire to see Ireland's Cliffs of Moher was finally achieved. We started by going to Galway at the suggestion of many locals as being a city we would enjoy. It is indeed a lovely college town on a river with plazas filled with street musicians. We found reasonable housing at the brand new Snozzle's Hostel- clean rooms and for EU20 PP we were able to have a private room with bath. While we don't usually take tour bus trips anywhere, we made an exception to visit the Connemara region to see the Cliffs, as well as castles and country side along the way. We are working hard to balance school work with the real world which beckons like a siren each day. The bus driver/tour guide was a gem- an older gentleman who has the classic Irish brogue and perfect timing with his humor. He sang songs all the way back and I couldn't help but think this is one happy man who loves his work and does it well. The sun shone all day and the sea glistened. This was not the Ireland I had been expecting when I packed all our rain gear.

-Mary

Cavan, Ireland

I am going to tell you about my trip to Ireland. we went first to Cavan where the music Fleadh was held. It was packed. in one place it took five minutes to walk ten feet! We went to hear lots of music. One of the drummers from the band Beoga was great. I went to an Irish football game- not to be confused with soccer! I went with the coach because he was our host and got to flag the points. It was very rough but I loved it. That was my trip to Cavan and it was fun. My next entry will be about Galway.

-Corin

Red eye to Ireland went as smoothly as it comes- the air not too punishingly dry nor the pressure painful- the food was edible and the attendants pleasant -seemed to hardly take any time at all. I am wondering why the Seattle-NJ portion is not that way- is it the model of the plane or some cost-cutting procedure somewhere?

Immediately upon landing I am struck by the cleanliness of Ireland -the floors and streets and people are all as fresh as brand new- the sweet houses and yards and towns so carefully tended and smiles so abundant- one need only look confused and help is at the elbow. The bus was swift and timely and my only beef was the lack of convenient bathroom access- one must plan well ahead in this country. Our host James Clark was right on the phone when I called and came to get us after a shared plate of a meat and potatoes type of meal. His duplex is new and tidy -albeit tiny -but he is the nicest person you'd ever hope to meet.

And now here we are happily settled into the Fleadh -a traditional Irish music festival - and the largest traditional music festival in the world. last evening we saw a famous lilter speaking about the form and after, street busking which consisted of children making music on every street corner-competitively for generous cash prizes. It was alive and cheery in a way you can feel in your walk. We finished our evening with crepes and a very long unplanned detour getting home just before dark. Corin is becoming much more helpful with maps and figuring things out in general which is a great relief to me!

-Mary

We are quickly learning that moving day is not compatible with school work. This is so much harder than I imagined!

The bus ride through the country side was interesting. Two different men got on and sat next to me reeking of alcohol and ciggies. One woman, also drunk, went on and on about Corin's curls- so much so that when we got to Galway he marched into a barber for a very short cut and after said "mom- study me so you'll recognize me in a crowd"

He has instantly gone from darling boy with milk chocolate curls and carmel tips to handsome young man emerging...despite a sprinkling of freckles and tiny pimples.

I find myself thinking about the Irish and how I have rarely found a door hung well enough to close properly --or the lock that doesn't work in our host's new house or the pipe dripping from the ceiling -- all makes me think I wouldn't hire an Irish carpenter...or cook... But to care for my parents or my child --now that is another story as I have watched the patience and kindness in how every child and adult with are tended and shepherded through the public crowds at the music festival or even at our hostel --and I think how the hearts and souls of the people here are unparalleled.

-Mary

Went on a tour-there is a reason for a poem, prayer or song at every turn with these people. We rode in a large bus to former castle and battle and fort sites making our way through cow piles and deep grass to the spots of famous activities. We definitely got the feeling that Cavan is new to tourism. The lunch at the former Lord Farnham's estate was lovely- Yorkshire pudding and prime rib --then apple crisp with creme fraiche.

One day Corin and I took a traditional singing class all in celtic Irish -of course and during the class the rain started outside the windows in a loud frenzy but the singers just raised their voices to a higher level- "compensators we are" said a smiling Irish man right next to us. Indeed I do begin to get this impression. I have seen the expensive ticket prices handled by one partner in friends or marriage (not even discreetly) passing their ticket behind them to be used at the point of entry again. I have seen so very many special needs children in over-sized strollers or being guided by an arm of an adult and no stares and wonder-is this at least in part due to the church's position on amnio and abortion? I see huge portions of "chips" on most plates as potatoes grow easily here and much of the rest is expensive and imported. I have noticed our host turns off the hot water whenever he is gone- so that we may not use it? Yet we are paying well for our stay eu400 which is I think approximately $520. A luxury hotel booked in advance would have been EU55 per night so I think he is doing fine --but perhaps the only thing they are generous with is their drinking budget --ha ha--never a shortage of beer.

Being Sunday I figured it was time to visit the large impressive cathedral at the town center. It is magnificently poised on the highest point and when we went up there beautiful Irish music was playing. It was magically transforming- alas corin was not the least bit interested in savoring the moment as he was anxious to get to the Internet at the library! This is a point of contention as he is not using it to communicate or research- he is using it for gaming and it is time for me to lay down law.

We rented two bikes for an 18 KM ride through Cavan county - it is hilly and pastoral with some wild woods in the center which is completely untamed as the Irish don't appear to be big hikers or outdoors people. This so called park had no signs or official entrances and we rode all the way round it without ever knowing we were there.

Today Corin is invited to join our host when he goes to referee an Irish football game. I will pack and organize for our trip to Galway tomorrow. I am most looking forward to seeing the Cliffs Of Moher.

-Mary

Packing Up and Heading Out

It took us just five weeks to sell our home. We had planned on months! So the packing and sorting began. We had filled our 3 bedroom home to capacity- this is so easy to do when you can procrastinate decision-making and simply "put it in the garage" or "in the shelves under the stairs". Amazing accumulations in staggering proportions. It was exhausting to sort and toss, donate, loan, sell, and box up. This took at least two weeks and this was with the help of many wonderful friends. I now understand why some people never move, and leave it to their poor relatives to sort out after leaving this planet. It is just so physically and psychologically demanding my brain hurt when I went to bed. Corin, at 10, is growing so quickly many of his things wouldn't fit or be appropriate in six months time, our expected time frame. Then there is the "memory lane' aspect of combing through photos and memorabilia.

Ruthlessness set in about ten days into the process.

The final day I broke down and paid "Got Junk" to come and haul a truck load away. There is a blissful feeling of lightness of being I can't remember having since I first moved to Alaska in 1979 with 2 suitcases and a dog.

We found a wonderful house/dog sitting gig, and moved on to passports, shots, communication devices, and planning. Again, overwhelming. It's a great big world, no doubt, but where to go and when? Since Corin is half-Irish, we decided to start in Ireland and make our way south as the temperatures drop. Corin sings Irish ballads so we're starting with the National Celtic Music Festival. Seems like a gentle way to de-jetlag. So we have our first one way tickets ever, in hand.

Still the heart pounds away at night with questions and worry about the uncharted waters ahead of us.

-Mary